Exploring out by Dain’s World

This followed by trail cameras ended the trip early..

Bobby on Carnivore 

Anthony sending R God

Richard with foot first exit on Direct

Years End

Been recently spending more time at Puzzle Box Roof with Richard, Bobby, and Anthony. I have personally never been of fan of this roof. For starters, the foot traffic it receives drives me nuts, and secondly it’s just a bunch of link up lines that are mediocre. (I’m sure I’ll piss some people off with that hot take) 

With my tendons still hating me, R God looked appealing. Weird movement on good holds. Had trouble placing the toe cam, a stiffer shoe being the “solution.”

After the send, I’m realizing that this roof should be taking with a grain of salt. It more or less helps people discover knee bars, awkward toe cams, body tension. There is a little bit of everything so I see the appeal…Still not something that is on my priority list. Too cold to pull on this shit right now anyway. Maybe I’m just crusty.

I have been reinvigorated with the carnivore direct spark. Been finishing up sessions at anorexic with the fellas. The crux move on direct for me is the throw to the banana (rodeo move). Getting the heel placed right, locked in sideways isn’t very fun when your full spread eagle. I have hopes of it going soon. Maybe not this season, but soon. 

What I’m thankful for most this season is just the sheer amount of time I’ve been able to spend outside with my hectic schedule. I’ll continue the search for my own stone when time permits, I think that’s what I’ll strive for most this upcoming season. My goal is not to be the strongest climber, not to be grade chaser. Just out to discover and try what most won’t (At least what the phoenix climbing crowd won’t lol)

Good Times

 

📸  taken by Mr. Fu

 

Numbing out

Snow has officially settled in. As we enter the cooler months, fingers get numb, pads get pulled, and projects are put on hold. Harvesting pads from the project was a bitter sweet moment. Could have realistically just left them there but with my short supply of only 10, they are needed elsewhere. Hitting some moderates for the winter is what I require in order to heal my tendon.

 Much hasn’t been sent within the past month. Just sampling a bunch of stuff to see what draws me in. Trying to spend as much time outside, as gym climbing just doesn’t do it for me.

  Got done with my daily task early mid week and ended up meeting the homie at the local dump that is South Mountain for a grand ol time. We ventured over to Mini Slash Face. A 7c board style problem with a punchy first move, followed by lackluster v4 movement. Starting crossed on a left hand credit card crimp and firing out right hand to a decent in-cut finger bucket is pretty much where the grade comes from. One of those “party trick” climbs. Linked every move in a session but don’t feel the need to return to it anytime soon. All and all, a good time just hanging out and being in the canyon.

 

Josh trying Mini Slash Face

Other than that did some exploring around Tom’s Thumb boulder field out in the Mcdowells, coming up empty handed. The weather and hike were nice though.  Also went out to the Watchtower with Bobby and Richard. Ballista is refreshing. Haven’t been back to this roof in over a year. Calling it stellar would be an understatement. Made it all the way out to the headwall first go. I’m pretty harsh when it comes to rating problems but this is up there as one of the best I’ve done so far. I’m sure it will go next sesh (if it isn’t too cold…)  Feels good to pull on something new that fits my box so well.

Hiking out the canyon looking for goodies 

If the height doesn’t get ya, the choss will

A whole lotta choss

A promising side quest :)

     

Tendon injury is still going strong. Went to support the homie on Beast From the East today. Pulled on a few times. Just as hard as I remember from last year. My beta uses a heinous piano match on a decent undercling before firing out right hand to a blind crimp. However, today it felt quite painful. Ended up throwing the towel after a few tries for my own good. Even though I couldn’t climb hard, I still got to enjoy some wonderful weather and scenery. Anthony has the problem pretty much on lock and will end up sending soon. 

We then headed over to the Anvils to try something a little less tendon intensive. Ended up sending Alien baby left.  2/5 stars for me. Totally my anti-style. The lower moves are sick. After grabbing the crimp with the left hand quality goes down from there. If you mess up the right hand throw, you’ll end up back splatting on a tree 2 feet behind you. 

A nice change up from roofs but still, not really for me. I hope to complete the right variation someday but it’s not like a bucket list thing for me. Seems like something I’ll do if I get bored…

Topping Alien Baby Left

Working Beast From The East

 

Quiet afternoon at the Burrow

Topping Seeker

Anthony pulling on Sectumsempra 

 

Got absolutely smacked on seedling today at riparian roof. After blowing the final move before the headwall a few weeks ago I somehow tweaked a tendon in my left arm. Pain runs from my middle and ring finger down my forearm to the elbow. Took it easy for the next few days and was sucked into going to mars. This probably did more damage than good. 

My beta for the entrance of seedling requires a deep but tweaky mono on the left hand. When in good health the move isn’t bad. With a messed up tendon, the move is terrible. This followed by a lack of sleep and stress due to personal reasons just made the day overall difficult. Pretty close to throwing the towel on this climb for the season. Will probably pull pads as cooling temps just decrease my odds. Seeing the original establisher of the climb change the 8a log to a soft v9 also puts a damper on my spirits. I know if this was located elsewhere it would easily be soft 8a or -v11, but shits different out there. I know I shouldnt let the grade bum me out as much as it does but this is 100% the hardest climb I have ever done. I’m still going to hit this with 7c+ at the end of the day. Idk maybe I’m just weak…

Beside that Bobby, Trevor, and I left the roof to go check out Ryan Rickman’s “hognose!” We found some cool sandstone formations down lower in the canyon that definitely have potential. 

Think I just need a week of rest. Rather be out a few weeks than a few months. Temped to just retrieve all my pads from the ridge and just go find my own stone instead of what others have established. 

 

Wednesday draw sesh

Today at the draw was a small win in my opinion. Would count it as my first session on the girl from Ipanema. Burns from the start to the finger crack are consistent. Figured out the move after the left hand gaston. Crossing the left over to the spock remains a challenge. Long story short I was able to get the climb in 2 parts today. I see it going down quickly. I know most consider it to be soft 11. But 11 is 11 and that’s a win in my book….whatever. I’ll enjoy the climb for what it is. 4/5 stars currently so it beats “the girl” 

For now rest then back to the ridge to finish off the seedling and seeker before winter conditions roll in. Bats are already starting to find pockets to hide it for the winter. (Might have made contact with one the other day, rabies shots are in progress lol)

A day away from the projects

Hitting the finger bucket on the head wall of Fluff and Serve

Bobby topping out